Although they're called the Cook Islands, Palmerston is the only one on which Captain Cook ever set foot himself. He discovered it on his second voyage in 1774, but it wasn't until Sunday, April 13, 1777, during his third Pacific voyage, that he went ashore. He named the tiny and remote island after Lord Palmerston who was First Lord of the British Admiralty and father of a future British Prime Minister. The ancient name was supposedly Avarau, meaning 200 harbours.
By the time his youngest daughter, Mrs Titana Tangi died in 1973, there were over one thousand Ma(r)sters living in Rarotonga or New Zealand. Just over 60 remain on Palmerston, but wherever they live, they all consider it their homeland.
William was born a Masters and his name became corrupted to Marsters, possibly because of the way he pronounced it - he came from Leicestershire in England and grew up n the Midlands where the accent would have made it sound like there was an "r" in the middle. And to this day, islanders still speak with an old fashioned English twang which linguists say is similar to the Gloucestershire accent.
Palmerston was annexed to the UK on 23rd May, 1891 and soon after, the British Government granted William a 21 year lease on the island, after a long war of words in the corridors of British power while a Scotsman contested William's claim.
The Marsters family were granted full ownership of Palmerston in 1954 by means of an amendment to the Cook Islands Act passed by the UK Parliament.
Three branches of the family remain and each has a section of the main island for houses and crops, and parts of the other islets. Marriage within a family branch is prohibited. The Islanders are also fiercely loyal to Her Majesty the Queen (Queen Elizabeth II) who they say is a distant relative.
William was born a Masters and his name became corrupted to Marsters, possibly because of the way he pronounced it - he came from Leicestershire in England and grew up n the Midlands where the accent would have made it sound like there was an "r" in the middle. And to this day, islanders still speak with an old fashioned English twang which linguists say is similar to the Gloucestershire accent.
Palmerston was annexed to the UK on 23rd May, 1891 and soon after, the British Government granted William a 21 year lease on the island, after a long war of words in the corridors of British power while a Scotsman contested William's claim.
The Marsters family were granted full ownership of Palmerston in 1954 by means of an amendment to the Cook Islands Act passed by the UK Parliament.
Three branches of the family remain and each has a section of the main island for houses and crops, and parts of the other islets. Marriage within a family branch is prohibited. The Islanders are also fiercely loyal to Her Majesty the Queen (Queen Elizabeth II) who they say is a distant relative.
For the Marsters story in detail, click here
OFF THE MAP
The island is so remote, it wasn't even properly located on maps until 1969! Up and till then, its position was based on Captain Cook's original charts which showed it 10 miles away from where navigation satellites have now confirmed it really is. Around the reef are six groups of islets, the largest being Palmerston, North Island, Lee To Us, Leicester, Primrose, Toms and Cooks.
Ships visit with supplies only a few times a year, so the recently built HF telephone station (above right) provides the only permanent link with the outside world. There is almost no cash economy - services, labour and food are bartered. Visiting yachts help supplement the island's needs.
The island is so remote, it wasn't even properly located on maps until 1969! Up and till then, its position was based on Captain Cook's original charts which showed it 10 miles away from where navigation satellites have now confirmed it really is. Around the reef are six groups of islets, the largest being Palmerston, North Island, Lee To Us, Leicester, Primrose, Toms and Cooks.
Ships visit with supplies only a few times a year, so the recently built HF telephone station (above right) provides the only permanent link with the outside world. There is almost no cash economy - services, labour and food are bartered. Visiting yachts help supplement the island's needs.
Aerial picture (centre) courtesy of Ewan Smith, Air Rarotonga. Click on it for a stunning larger image
William Marsters built his own home on Palmerston from shipwreck timbers and driftwood found on the shores at the time of his landing
Population 63
0.8 sq mls/2.1 sq. kms
0.8 sq mls/2.1 sq. kms
Access: Very difficult.
Occasional boats from Rarotonga
Occasional boats from Rarotonga
All the islanders are descended from one Englishman, William Marsters, a carpenter and barrel maker who arrived from Manuae on 8th July, 1863. He was accompanied by one or possibly two Polynesian wives. He subsequently ended up with four wives, although he only married one. And that was after deserting his first wife and two children in England. Masters had 17 children by his Polynesian wives and 54 grandchildren before he died on 22nd May, 1899, aged 78.
The Marsters Legacy
GETTING THERE
Getting to Palmerston is very difficult, but you can now join an eco tour. The research vessel, MV Bounty Bay is operating occasional trips out of Rarotonga. They're run by Pacific Expeditions Ltd and their web site has all the details (opens in a new window or tab)
Getting to Palmerston is very difficult, but you can now join an eco tour. The research vessel, MV Bounty Bay is operating occasional trips out of Rarotonga. They're run by Pacific Expeditions Ltd and their web site has all the details (opens in a new window or tab)
William's grave on Palmerston
Direct descendant, Simon Marsters outside the house
No one has lived in it for years. Only the corrugated iron roof is new - the original is still underneath.
An English Legacy
270 mils/ 434 kms
North West of Rarotonga
North West of Rarotonga
POINTERS TO PARADISE:
MORE OF PALMERSTON RAROTONGA SITE MAP HOME SURPRISE ME!
OR FIND YOUR OWN PIECE OF PARADISE USING THE MENU ON THE LEFT
MORE OF PALMERSTON RAROTONGA SITE MAP HOME SURPRISE ME!
OR FIND YOUR OWN PIECE OF PARADISE USING THE MENU ON THE LEFT
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Palmerston is an atoll made up from the summit of an old volcano which rises 4,000 metres (13,123 feet) from the ocean floor. At its highest point, it's just 4 metres (13 feet) above sea level. The land near the reef is infertile, but there are typical atoll tree crops of coconut and pandamus. The island is a major nesting site for the green turtle and rare seabirds.
Looking down the main street towards the sea
The only link with the outside world...there are two telephones
