THROUGH A WRITER'S EYES: 1924
The late American writer, Robert Dean Frisbie settled on Pukapuka in 1924 and immortalised the island in the books he wrote about it. He said at the time he was looking for a place beyond the reach of "the faintest echo from the noisy clamour of the civilised world". He found it, and to this day Pukapuka is one of the most untouched and secluded places in the Cook Islands.
One of Frisbie's books, "The Island of Desire (The Story of a South Sea Trader)" is available on line thanks to Project Gutenberg of Australia. It gives a fascinating insight into Pukapuka in the 1920s.
One of Frisbie's books, "The Island of Desire (The Story of a South Sea Trader)" is available on line thanks to Project Gutenberg of Australia. It gives a fascinating insight into Pukapuka in the 1920s.
Pukapuka as seen from the Space Shuttle
Image: Earth Sciences and Image Analysis Laboratory, NASA Johnson Space Center
Image: Earth Sciences and Image Analysis Laboratory, NASA Johnson Space Center
Population 507
0.5 sq. mls/1.3 sq. kms
0.5 sq. mls/1.3 sq. kms
Access: Difficult
Occassional flights from Rarotonga
Occassional flights from Rarotonga
The number of players is decided by the challenging team, but it's never less than 20 or more than 40. The batsman - who doesn't wear shoes, let alone shin pads - doesn't run himself. He has a bunch of younger islanders who do it for him. Every time a batsman is out, not only are there chants of triumph but also some provocative macho dances, before he's replaced with a batsman from the opposing team.
Umpires use their whistle for any number of reasons (including just the sheer joy of being alive), and games continue for an indefinite number of days, before the winner is decided by a mysterious process that seems to be known only to participants.
Umpires use their whistle for any number of reasons (including just the sheer joy of being alive), and games continue for an indefinite number of days, before the winner is decided by a mysterious process that seems to be known only to participants.
One report of a 35 a side match says pseudo karate routines, obscene speeches, ridiculing and teasing are an essential part of a good game. There's also a women only version! And in both cases, the match is played for food...which the losing team have to fish for.
UNCHANGED AND UNCHANGING
Culture and traditions like palm weaving (right) have remained unchanged for centuries.
And even with the arrival of an irregular air service, the island's unlikely to be overwhelmed with tourists. The five hour flight from Rarotonga is scheduled to operate only once every six weeks or so, but it rarely does these days because of fuel shortages on the island. The airport is about an hour's boat trip from the main settlement of Wale.
The other settlements are Ngake, Roto and Yato.
Culture and traditions like palm weaving (right) have remained unchanged for centuries.
And even with the arrival of an irregular air service, the island's unlikely to be overwhelmed with tourists. The five hour flight from Rarotonga is scheduled to operate only once every six weeks or so, but it rarely does these days because of fuel shortages on the island. The airport is about an hour's boat trip from the main settlement of Wale.
The other settlements are Ngake, Roto and Yato.
A stunning aerial view
Picture courtesy of Ewan Smith,
Air Rarotonga
Picture courtesy of Ewan Smith,
Air Rarotonga
TSUNAMI SURVIVORS
The entire population is said to be descended from just 14 people who survived a catastrophic storm and tidal waves (a tsunami) over 500 years ago.
Not surprising then that it was previously called Danger Island - a name it was given back in 1765 by English commodore, John Byrom who found himself unable to land because of the heavy seas pounding a large, submerged reef to the west. The name still appears on some maps to this day. The first European to sight it though was Spanish explorer, Alvaro de Mendana on 20 August, 1595 - St. Bernard's Day. He named it San Bernando.
Not surprising then that it was previously called Danger Island - a name it was given back in 1765 by English commodore, John Byrom who found himself unable to land because of the heavy seas pounding a large, submerged reef to the west. The name still appears on some maps to this day. The first European to sight it though was Spanish explorer, Alvaro de Mendana on 20 August, 1595 - St. Bernard's Day. He named it San Bernando.
COMMUNAL CONSERVATION
Living on Pukapuka is like being in a commune. The islanders practice traditional conservation which calls for entire villages to move from atoll to atoll for periods of time. But this is not a nomadic existence, but rather one with a focus on conservation. The felling of trees is also prohibited without permission from village elders. If a bird is killed out of season, or crabs or coconuts taken early, small but humiliating fines are imposed. For more serious offences, the person is treated as a child until sincere remorse is shown. The offender cannot speak at meetings and is given a child's food and wages.
Pukapuka is one of the remotest places on earth. It's closer to Samoa than it is to the capital island of Rarotonga which is 1150 kms (714 miles) southeast. It has its own language and customs and other Cook Islanders say its main asset is beautiful girls. It's also the most densely populated part of the Cooks (390 people per square kilometre). The Island's name derives from the puka tree (above, and close up left) which is commonplace. But it's also known as 'Danger Island' because of an 8km submerged reef to the west which is treacherous for boats. Image from the Cook Islands Biodiversity website
CYCLONE PERCY
On the morning of February 25, 2005 Cyclone Percy hit the Island head on. It was classified as a category 4 to 5 cyclone on an scale where 5 is the most severe, and was one of five cyclones in five weeks which swept through the Cook Islands. At one stage, it was thought Pukapuka would have to be abandoned...but the locals are made of tougher stuff and decided to stay and rebuild. To this day, that rebuilding continues.
...AND 2004
When UK author and former comedienne, Pamela Stephenson visited in December, 2004 she found an island "very nicely set up with well organized community facilities". In her book "Treasure Islands" (which I strongly recommend), she saw a school, hospital, coral sand tennis courts, garage, three churches and taro and sugar cane patches, as well as several stores.
Pukapukans are also keen on sport. A large field known as the Niua Ya O Mataliki Stadium is the focal point for soccer, wrestling, relays, volleyball, tennis, cricket - or rather "kirikiti" (see below) - and discus throwing. The island's three villages compete regularly against each other.
Pukapukans are also keen on sport. A large field known as the Niua Ya O Mataliki Stadium is the focal point for soccer, wrestling, relays, volleyball, tennis, cricket - or rather "kirikiti" (see below) - and discus throwing. The island's three villages compete regularly against each other.
"Treasure Islands" is published by Headline Book Publishing, London
IN THEIR OWN UNIQUE WORDS
English is rarely spoken, although most locals know some and children are taught it in the local school. It's estimated just over 2,000 people in Oceania speak Pukapukan. If you want to impress, here are a few words:
PEWEA: Hello, how are you?
KO LELEI WUA: I'm fine
ATA WAI WOLO: Thank you
KO LELEI WUA: I'm fine
ATA WAI WOLO: Thank you
Islanders live on one of three tiny islets on the reef which encloses the crystal clear waters of the triangular shaped lagoon. The highest point is less than 5 metres (16.5 feet) above sea level.
The soil is infertile and coconut palms, pandanus, puraka - a variety of taro tolerant of the environment - and a few breadfruit trees make up the main vegetation.
And mosquitos are a particular pest....although they're not malarial
The soil is infertile and coconut palms, pandanus, puraka - a variety of taro tolerant of the environment - and a few breadfruit trees make up the main vegetation.
And mosquitos are a particular pest....although they're not malarial
Pihotoss courtesy of Marcus Gleinig, Rarotonga
Island of beautiful girls
Nothern Group
715 miles/1150 kms
Northwest by North from Rarotonga
715 miles/1150 kms
Northwest by North from Rarotonga
School on the beach
The islanders have a passion for their own form of cricket called kirikiti. It originated in Samoa. Games are played with a long three-sided bat and a "ball" or "bowl" that can best be described as a solid block of wood.
IT'S JUST NOT CRICKET!
A written form of the language does not exist, but a unique project is underway to translate the Bible into Pukapukan. New Zealand scholar, Dr Mary Sailsbury and her husband, Kevin are working with the Pukapuka community to produce what will be the very first work in the language.
SPOT THE DIFFERENCE?
Left : Pukapuka as it would have looked in Mama Tuki's childhood
From Islands of Danger by Ernest Beaglehole (Wellington, 1944)
Right: Part of the main village today
Left : Pukapuka as it would have looked in Mama Tuki's childhood
From Islands of Danger by Ernest Beaglehole (Wellington, 1944)
Right: Part of the main village today
"Apart from school I would work in our taro swamps with my sisters. Actually I spent most part of a day in the swamp. That is our culture in Pukapuka and up until today we women still look after the taro swamps."
"I always laugh when I think back to those days, like when a house gets a tinned corned beef it is a big thing. The aroma of the food will filter to their neighbours who may just be standing outside watching them eat this 'expensive' and 'tasty' food. "
"I always laugh when I think back to those days, like when a house gets a tinned corned beef it is a big thing. The aroma of the food will filter to their neighbours who may just be standing outside watching them eat this 'expensive' and 'tasty' food. "
*Published in Cook Islands News, June 2007
A MAMA'S MEMORIES
Life on Pukapuka is far from easy, but back in 1948 when Mama Tuki (Tukiongo Poila Wright) was born there, it was tougher still. She was awarded an OBE by Her Majesty The Queen in June, 2007 for her many services to the community - an honour that she dedicated to her home island. And in an interview with Cook Islands News* she recalled her days of growing up in one of the remotest places on earth.
"That time there was no bread and the boat would come to the island only twice a year with supplies. So we would go to school with lunches that you never see today - taro, fish, breadfruit, uto or sweet coconuts. They were healthy food but it was hard work getting them.
"That time there was no bread and the boat would come to the island only twice a year with supplies. So we would go to school with lunches that you never see today - taro, fish, breadfruit, uto or sweet coconuts. They were healthy food but it was hard work getting them.
Photographs are copyright Wolfgang Losacker
Salt in the seawater serves as toothpaste
Children help collect and prepare coconuts - the sun-dried flesh is exported as "kopra". Coconut and its by products are the mainstay of the island's economy.
DOCTOR IN PARADISE
The picture above and the two photos below are from 'South Seas Cook Islands' by Doctor Wolfgang Losacker - a highly recommended book of superb photographs, which you'll find on sale all over Rarotonga. Dr. Losacker works at the hospital on the capital island and has also taken his skills to many of the outer islands, along the way capturing on film an insight into everyday life.
POINTERS TO PARADISE:
PUKAPUKA'S "SUBURB" RAROTONGA SITE MAP HOME SURPRISE ME!
OR FIND YOUR OWN PIECE OF PARADISE USING THE MENU AT THE TOP OF THE PAGE
PUKAPUKA'S "SUBURB" RAROTONGA SITE MAP HOME SURPRISE ME!
OR FIND YOUR OWN PIECE OF PARADISE USING THE MENU AT THE TOP OF THE PAGE
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