Rakahanga, Cook Islands northern group

There are two main islands and seven motus or islets in the Rakahanga lagoon. On the east these are: Akaro, Motu Ngangle, Huananul, Motu Mahuta and Motu Okakara. On the southwest side the islet of Te Kainga ("the home") guards the widest passage in to the lagoon. It's also the original dwelling place of the first residents.

Aerial picture courtesy of Ewan Smith, Air Rarotonga

Population 127
1.6 sq. mls/4.1 sq. kms

Access: Difficult.
Boat from Manihiki or inter island vessel

NATURE'S BOUNTY

Unlike other islands, the Rakahanga lagoon isn't suitable for pearls. Huge coconut crabs (left) are its gems, and fishing is good on the outer reef. Large sea turtles abound there too. Each January, a tuna fishing contest takes place and boats return with 200 or more fish a day.

Vegetation is abundant, large breadfruit trees line village paths and coconut palms and pandanus trees thrive. Women weave fine rito hats, mats and baskets from the pandanus leaf fibres.

The puraka plant flourishes

Cooking Rakahanga Style?

A coarse dry taro called puraka or swamp taro is enjoyed by locals, but considered bland and starchy by foreigners. One European who lived on Rakahanga passed on his favourite recipe which is reproduced in the "Cook Islands Companion" mentioned above. Rakahangans please take note: he was criticising the puraka, not your wonderful island! Anyway, here's what he wrote...

"Cut up the puraka into small chunks about the size of a thumb. Put them in a pot of boiling water, along with a coral rock about as big as your hand, and cover the pot. Cook it all for three hours, adding some salt and pepper every hour or so. When the three hours are done, drain away the water, throw away the puraka and eat the rock. It will still have more flavour than the puraka!"

Up to date information about Rakahanga is almost non-existent, because it's very rarely visited by outsiders. There's even doubt about who discovered it in the first place. Some say it was the Portuguese navigator, Ferdinand Magellan in 1521, but academic research hasn't been able to confirm this. What is known though is that the island could disappear off the map forever. Like its nearest neighbour, Manihiki 42 kms south, it's so low lying that it will get washed away if global warming causes sea levels to rise even a little

A SNAPSHOT OF ISLAND LIFE

"If there is a place where a man can grow old contentedly, it is on some quiet, drowsy atoll, where today is forever and tomorrow never comes; where men live and die, feast and sorrow, while the wind and the waves play over the wet sands and gleaming reefs"
Australian author, Julian Hillas (aka Dashwood) who lived on Rakahanga during the 1940s

The undiscovered country

Northern Group
674 miles/1084 kms
North West of Rarotonga

American author, Elliot Smith is one of a few outsiders to have written* about a visit to Rakahanga. He says the little settlement of Matara (also called Nivano) has a tiny wharf and boat landing. The CICC church, primary school, a couple of shops and some government offices sit among well-made houses in what he calls "this sleepy town". Tiny huts are erected over graves in the cemeteries, as is the custom on the island. And possessions of the deceased are placed in them to help them in the world beyond. Smith says the locals are more reserved than the neighbouring Manihikians, but most "warm up quickly".