Suwarrow was described by Mrs Robert Louis Stevenson as "the most romantic island in the world". It wasn't the model for her husband's famous book, but the atoll is a true Treasure Island. In the mid 19th century, a ship from Tahiti was carrying out salvage work on Suwarrow's reef when it unearthed a box containing US$15,000 in gold and silver coins. And in 1876, a New Zealander, Henry Mair discovered silver pieces of eight in a turtle nest! The main find was hastily covered again because of a row in which Mair became involved....and it's never been rediscovered!
Population 2 (Apr-Oct only)
0.15 sq mls/0.4 sq. kms
0.15 sq mls/0.4 sq. kms
"The Hermit of Suwarrow"
"I chose to live in the Pacific islands because life there moves at the sort of pace which you feel God must have had in mind originally when He made the sun to keep us warm and provided the fruits of the earth for the taking.."
"I chose to live in the Pacific islands because life there moves at the sort of pace which you feel God must have had in mind originally when He made the sun to keep us warm and provided the fruits of the earth for the taking.."
From Tom Neale's Book "An Island to Oneself"
Tom Neale was a sailor who dreamed of living alone on a tropical island. He read about Suwarrow in a book and when his ship stopped there in 1945 it was love at first sight. He finally got Government permission in 1952 to live there and in October that year became a modern Robinson Crusoe. For 15 of the next 25 years he lived alone on the island, tending his garden and chickens, catching fish and coconut crabs. In 1966, a friend helped him publish his story, "An Island to Oneself". He stayed until 1977 when stomach cancer forced a return to Rarotonga. Tom died that year and is buried in the RSA Cemetery on Rarotonga.
Today, Suwarrow is a treasure island of another kind. It was declared a National Heritage Park in 1978 And new regulations being introduced this year mean that the island itself, its reef and a six kilometre area around it is totally protected under Cook Islands law.
Suwarrow and its reef are home to a million seabirds, thousands of coconut crabs, hundreds of sharks and rare species of turtles...and a caretakeer and his wife, John and Veronica Samuel. But even they only live there in the cyclone off-season (April to November).
Suwarrow and its reef are home to a million seabirds, thousands of coconut crabs, hundreds of sharks and rare species of turtles...and a caretakeer and his wife, John and Veronica Samuel. But even they only live there in the cyclone off-season (April to November).
A special web site pays tribute to Tom Neale's life. A campaign has also been launched to raise money to preserve his former home on Suwarrow. Click here to go to the site and find out more. You can also read Tom's fascinating story online.
Access: Very difficult.
Occasional boats
and eco tours
Occasional boats
and eco tours
The inscription on the memorial reads: "Tom Neale lived his dream on this island"
HOW SUWARROW LINKS HM THE QUEEN....
Although Suwarrow is part of the Cook Islands and administered as such, it is deemed to be Crown Land which means Her Majesty the Queen (Queen Elizabeth II) is the official land owner.
...AND A GREAT RUSSIAN GENERAL
The Island takes its name from one of the most famous - some say the greatest - Russian Generals of all time, Alexander Vasilievich Suvorov who landed on 27th September, 1814. It's one of only two islands in the South Pacific to bear a Russian name (the other is Vostok which is north of Tahiti).
GETTING TO SUWARROW
Getting to Suwarrow has recently beome a bit easier for tourists. The research vessel, Bounty Bay (pictured right) is operating occasional tours out of Rarotonga. They're run by Pacific Expeditions Ltd and their web site has all the details (opens in a new window or tab)
General Suvarov
WHAT DO YOU WANT TO EXPLORE NEXT?
MORE HIDDEN TREASURES OF SUWARROW GETTING AROUND TOP 10 "TO DO
IF YOU'RE TAKING THE 10 MINUTE TOUR, CLICK ON THE RED BUTTON TO CONTINUE
OR TAILOR MAKE YOUR OWN TOUR USING THE MENU ON THE LEFT
MORE HIDDEN TREASURES OF SUWARROW GETTING AROUND TOP 10 "TO DO
IF YOU'RE TAKING THE 10 MINUTE TOUR, CLICK ON THE RED BUTTON TO CONTINUE
OR TAILOR MAKE YOUR OWN TOUR USING THE MENU ON THE LEFT
A real treasure island
Northern Group
513miles/825kms
North North West of Rarotonga
513miles/825kms
North North West of Rarotonga
Few people know that Tom Neale was not the only person to live alone on Suwarrow. In the summer of 1965, a 23 year old former art student from London, Michael Swift began nearly a year of life as a hermit on the remote island. He persuaded New Zealand brothers, John and David Glennie to put him ashore with his possessions after joining the crew of their trimaran, 'Highlight' at Tahiti in July, 1965. He spent the first two months living mostly on uto which is the nutritous kernal of the mature coconut because he didn't know what else was safe to eat. His home was the hut formerly occupied by Tom Neale.
The London lad who followed in Tom Neale's footsteps
But Swift was an illegal immigrant according to the Cook Islands government because he had no permission to stay on the island. On 2nd December, 1965, John Tariau - then MP for Pukapuka - sailed into Suwarrow lagoon on a mission to tell him so. Swift told him he'd found peace and contentment on the island and under no circumstances was he returning to Europe. He signed an indemnity paper absolving the government of any responsiblitity to send a vessel to take him off the atoll, and before being left alone again he was presented with supplies and given tips on survival.
He turned up in Rarotonga in April, 1966 and left a few days later for New Zealand. He said he intended to return to Suwarrow, but when he learned in 1970 that Neale was back on the atoll, he went to live on Aitutaki instead. He's reported to have said that Suwarrow wasn't big enough for both of them!
He turned up in Rarotonga in April, 1966 and left a few days later for New Zealand. He said he intended to return to Suwarrow, but when he learned in 1970 that Neale was back on the atoll, he went to live on Aitutaki instead. He's reported to have said that Suwarrow wasn't big enough for both of them!
Summary of the only published account I can find of Michael Swift's stay on Suwarrow - from "Sisters in the Sun" by A.S. Helm and W.H. Percival (published by Robert Hale & Company, 1973). Photo by Dr Koekoe Mokotupu